Rowing touring trip Lübeck, 21 to 24 August 2025

Marzipan, Franzbrötchen and the German eight on the mystical Wakenitz

If there's one thing you can rely on, it's the delays of Deutsche Bahn. Nonetheless, at 5.50 a.m. we were of course all punctually on the platform in Frankfurt. After all, the motto was to make the most of our time on site. Merlin at the one coffee stand, Anke, Carina and Isa at the other, the rest – consisting of Angelika, Sandra, Katja, Patricia, Kathrin, Laura, Hendrik, Christoph, Dennis, Udo and Martin – trying to keep their eyes open. Arrived in Hamburg with a little time to spare, the Franzbrötchen stand was chosen as an alternative programme to try out as many different flavours as possible. A little heavier in weight, we arrived around midday at the youth hostel in Lübeck. The programme stayed tight: at 2 p.m. it was hands on the boat at the Lübeck rowing club. The walk there was crowned with a group photo under the Holsten Gate, flag in hand. Merlin had of course already snagged the first piece of marzipan, which certainly helped us keep the sugar level up along the way.

At the Lübeck rowing club we were welcomed by Norbert, who took so much trouble over us the whole time and was always on hand when we put in or out. To start with, where else, it was up the Trave towards Travemünde. As time was getting short, we made it to the old harbour in Gothmund. Once the industrial harbour was behind us, the landscape was exactly as we'd expect – northern German reed landscapes. We came back through the old town, with a view of the old Lübeck houses, Lübeck Cathedral and the beautiful waterfront promenade. A total of 20.3 kilometres – not bad for the first afternoon. But it was also about not wasting time. Our youth hostel was very central to the old town, which was a super location, although the rooms and shower facilities were a little cramped. Angelika, our head of organisation, had picked out really nice restaurants for every evening. We spent our first evening at the Kartoffelkeller with northern German shrimp baked potato.

Friday led us into a mystical fairy-tale land. Today we had a different starting point, from the Wakenitz canoe club. With our three boats we went mostly at half power along the Wakenitz, completely still, almost one with nature. The birds and the swans hardly took any notice of us, little white feathers floated like flakes over the water's surface. The port-side bank was a former border zone and therefore an untouched jungle. We wouldn't even have been surprised if a mythical creature had hopped across the surface of the water. We too were completely quiet, and only the clicking of the sculls broke the silence ever so slightly. At the Rothenhusen ferry house, right at the transition from the Wakenitz to the Ratzeburger See, we had a midday picnic. We'd already packed our lunch parcels at the youth hostel in the morning. The contrasting programme followed immediately: finding the straightest line across the Ratzeburger See, for the water was choppy to wild and the wind fresh. Opinions differed: while one boat moved closer to land, the others sought the middle line – what's a bit of wind (almost storm gusts)? But undaunted, we reached Ratzeburg and only had to find the passage to the Küchensee. But with Hendrik and Kathrin on board, that too was no problem. At the Ratzeburg rowing club we left the boats for the night. We'd actually wanted to apply as extras for the film „Adams Achter“, which is being shot there, but apparently those positions were already taken. But the German wooden sculls from 1960 were just lying around. After 30.6 km we then stopped off at the Italian in Ratzeburg.

Anyone who gets up in the early hours also meets the German elite on the water. On site in Ratzeburg, the German women were training. And we couldn't resist taking a little showing-off photo under the Olympic rings. With the sporting prominence so close, we wanted to put out neatly and professionally and at least, until out of sight, row sensibly. That worked out perfectly … the four with Udo, Merlin, Isa, Carina and Patrizia was half in, half out when casting off. Merlin panicked and didn't know whether to jump in quickly or stay out with Udo (in the bow), who stood stoically with one leg in the boat and the other on land. Henrik shook his head, slightly despairing, and surely wished for a different crew. The return trip across the lake was demanding, despite sunshine, but also really great.

The ferry house was a logical break point on the way back too. On Saturday it was much busier, lots of canoeists, and a steamer also travelled the rather narrow Wakenitz towards Lübeck. After a brief word with the captain, it was clear to us that we wouldn't get in each other's way, and off we went. With sunshine and many more water-sports enthusiasts, the Wakenitz suddenly seemed quite different, less mystical and yet very beautiful. And despite all the weather-check apps, we suddenly heard thunder and a dark weather front came from starboard. But apart from a few drops, we arrived unscathed in Lübeck after 24.1 km. Laura and Kathrin had initiated an internal counting competition: how many swans were sighted on the Wakenitz – it was 127, unbelievable. The afternoon could then FINALLY be spent consuming marzipan in all situations – marzipan pieces, marzipan cake, marzipan coffee, the Niederegger shop, etc. Everyone was happy. In the evening we ate Afghan at Jawed's Remise. Angelika had again chosen it brilliantly – the food was delicious, the people incredibly nice and the atmosphere simply wonderful. A really lovely last evening.

The last day was no longer quite so lovely weather-wise. We had to take our luggage with us, and Patrizia shared a taxi with all the bags to the club. After a loop through and around the old town, we went along the Trave in the other direction. However, we got into a bit of time trouble and had to put on a spurt too. The landing manoeuvre at the meadow by the canoe club was sporty, and the many tangleweeds slowed us down now and then. But we still rowed 26.6 km. A quick shower, luggage into the taxi, on foot to the station and off we went back home. Here too you could rely on the delay of the ICE to Frankfurt, which in turn led to many Franzbrötchen for the journey home.

It was lovely – from start to finish. A top organisation by Angelika and Kathrin, supported by Hendrik. Plus a crew that didn't let itself be unsettled by wind, waves, thunderstorm fronts and DB delays, but made the best of every situation – whether at the Franzbrötchen test at the station or the marzipan marathon in Lübeck. The mix of team spirit, composure and northern German charm made this rowing touring trip a special memory.